Article written by one of our members, Tom Matthews

February 9, 2007 - Mountain Riding
Reading the news and watching the tube the last few days, it seems that the weather has gone wild all over the country with snow, unseasonable cold and ice storms from California to the Carolinas. Northern Europe has been pounded as well.

Right now, I'm sitting here with temperatures in the teens and blue skies. I'm thinking about getting on the bike and going somewhere, anywhere. Maybe the post office, maybe the hardware store - anywhere.

While I'm thinking about riding it may be a good time to think about some riding tips and mountain riding specifically. Some of these are found on the Tips and Checklist page but I though I'd expand them here

So what's different about mountain riding? It's you, the bike and a road, right? Yes, but at altitude, both you and your bike that will perform differently and mountain roads will require adjustments in riding style and awareness.

First, the bike. Don't worry about having the wrong kind of bike for the mountains. If you are staying on the pavement and maybe a few well-graded gravel roads, any type of street-legal bike, from an enduro to a full dresser will work just fine. Be sure the bike is comfortable for mid to long distance touring. And most important, make sure it's in top shape mechanically, with good tires and brakes. If you rent a bike for your mountain ride, don't select a type and size bike you've never ridden before. Try to stay with something you are comfortable with in tight turning situations.

The big issue for your bike at altitude is reduced horsepower. For example, the published spec (at sea level) for my Triumph Tiger is 106 HP. It pumps out only 89 hp in the Mile High City and 78 hp at home at 8800 feet. By the time we get up to 10,000 feet (think Leadville) I have 75 horses to work with. Check out this nifty on-line calculatorto see the effects at different altitudes. I have not done the math to verify its accuracy but it matches up pretty well to other sources I have seen on the subject. It only goes to 10,000 ft. but you can extrapolate above that. Control and braking will be more important at high altitude than horses anyway. No high-speed runs up that high.

What does reduced power mean for safe riding? Obviously, acceleration is reduced from what you may be used to at lower altitudes. Twisting the throttle to get past a hazard may not have the expected result so it is important to get the feel of how the bike will react before you need it. Starting, especially uphill, will require more gas and a different touch on the clutch lever. Don't worry about making adjustments to your fuel mix. If your bike is running well at home, it will run rich here but not enough to worry about unless you plan to stay. Modern carbs adjust for barometric pressure and altitude, and electronic fuel injection pretty much takes care of itself. The bike will let you know how it's doing. Keep the revs up, use a lower gear and things will be fine.

The same thin air that robs horsepower can also affect your body. The effects of altitude on your body are usually just a feeling of being out of breath. It may seem obvious but we often have to remind people to breathe. If you find yourself out of breath, a few slow deep breaths and avoiding physical exertion for a few minutes will help. Some people visiting the mountains may be susceptible to altitude sickness. Over 8,500 feet, a very small percentage of people may start to get headaches and feel vague, flu-like symptoms. Don't ignore these but let your companions know so they can keep an eye on you. These will usually go away in a day or two and acclimatizing at lower altitudes, like Denver's mile-high altitude, before spending time in the high country will help prevent symptoms. Drinking lots of water often clears the symptoms completely. If the symptoms don't go away, the best treatment for altitude symptoms is to return to lower altitudes (8,000 feet or lower), which almost always brings quick relief. It's important to note that severe symptoms are rare at the altitudes typical for riders in North America and medical treatment is rarely required. In any case, it is critical to watch out for one another and discuss any symptoms with your riding partners so together you can handle any issues and make good decisions. A person's strength or level of fitness has no bearing as to whether they will be affected and there is no reason to feel embarrassed by altitude sickness.

Ok, Now you know how your bike and your body will react what's different about the roads? Cliff on one side, rock wall on the other, no guardrail, tight turns with limited sight lines. Add rocks, gravel and critters on the road, a slow moving RV or even an extreme sports dude on a skateboard and worries about horsepower tend to fade away. Brakes, and time and space for evasive action quickly come to the fore.

The first rule is don't ride beyond your own or your bike's abilities. Rule two is to expect the unexpected. Riding a perfect line through a blind turn won't mean much if there is an elk in the road or a car coming at you in your lane and you have no where to go. Ride single file and stretch out your following distances - four seconds is the minimum where sight lines are limited. More is better. When approaching a curve, keep your head up and look as far as you can into the curve. Always ride your own ride.

Expect loose gravel and sand on the inside of sharp turns from cars cutting the corner and watch for rocks and other debris on the road in steep areas. When you are riding through a series of switchbacks glance up and down to spot cars on the roadway above or below that may be closing or approaching. Be aware that you may not be able to see all the traffic this way. Practice your low speed riding and u-turn skills, keeping your feet on the pegs. These skills can be very helpful when maneuvering through tight switchbacks and will make you a better all around rider.

Stopping on a hill requires the foot brake. If you park and you can't find a flat spot, face uphill and leave the bike in gear. If the slope is not too great, park across the slope with the side-stand on whichever side provides the safest lean angle. If the angle isn't comfortable then move to a better spot. Picking up a dropped bike on the downhill side of a slope is no fun. And always watch for loose sand and gravel under your feet when stopping.

Another thing to remember when parking your bike in a high exposed mountain area is the wind. A strong gust can easily blow a bike over. Gauge the wind direction and park so the wind will tend to push the bike onto the side-stand as much as possible and always leave the bike in gear. I have seen middleweight cruisers lifted off the side stand and rolled backwards by the wind. Once again, if you don't feel comfortable parking the bike, make adjustments or move on.

What about the weather? The mountains make it tricky to guess the weather (I said guess, not forecast for a reason.) Prepare to ride through three seasons each day on your way up and down with temperature changes that can be 40 degrees or more each day. Proper gear including a rain suit, warm gloves and a good jacket liner are essential. Layers are best. Bring a heated vest or jacket liner if you have one but it's not a requirement. If the rain suit and extra layers stay packed, then better still.

The final thing to remember is why you ride in the mountains. If you want to enjoy those beautiful mountain vistas then slow down or pull over where it's safe and get out the camera. Splitting your attention between a narrow, winding strip of asphalt and a snow capped peak won't allow you to enjoy either one to their fullest.

Riding in the mountains isn't hard and it is much less dangerous that riding in city traffic. It does require that you make adjustments to your riding style and your mental awareness. Relax, slow down and enjoy your high altitude adventure.

Checkout Tom’s blog for further articles: Tom's Blog